Date: September 2016
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The New Modern
SKINCARE ESSENTIALS
Beauty at every age
Whether your goal is to prevent fine lines or repair past damage, every age has its own unique skin issues. Lane Crawford talks to top dermatologists to discover the ingredients and products that are essential to create your own bespoke skincare regime.
            
20s
THE ISSUES
The first problem is acne; “In our teens, hormones fluctuate at a high rate with the onset of puberty, by our 20’s, the cycles become more regulated. For some, this means acne settles down. For others, unfortunately, premenstrual breakouts become a regular problem. The turnover of the skin also starts to slow in our 20’s, resulting in blemishes that take longer to heal,” explains Dr. Macrene Alexiades, Founder and Director of Dermatology and Laser Surgery Center of New York. During this decade, the ageing process also begins. “Studies have shown that once we are in our 20’s, collagen and elastin levels begin to degrade which corresponds with a gradual appearance of wrinkles.”

THE DEFENSES
“Along with an anti-blemish solution, a simple non-clogging skincare routine based on cleansing, moisturising and sun protection should form the foundation of any 20-something’s routine,” says London-based cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting.

Dr. Alexiades suggests the addition of a daily antioxidant to prevent skin ageing. “Look for ingredients including vitamins C, E and ferulic acid and plant derived antioxidants such as green tea or coffee seed extract.”

30s
THE ISSUES
“The 30’s are a critical decade. The reason is that once collagen and elastin degrade to a certain level, skin laxity or sagging occurs. This causes lines to form around the mouth and jowls to appear, and lips start to thin. Red capillary dilatation, which manifests as red blotches, can also start to appear in this decade, giving the skin an uneven complexion” explains Dr. Alexiades.

THE DEFENSES
“Building in a good-quality antioxidant serum to the basic skincare routine of cleanser, moisturiser, sunscreen is important at this stage, particularly for city dwellers, as we know both UV damage and air-borne pollution contribute to free radical damage,” says Dr. Bunting.

Dr. Alexiades expands, “During this phase, focus on building the strength of the dermis, the deeper skin layer, using peptides that achieve visible tightening. Also look for DNA repairing enzymes to reverse mutations caused by sun damage.” Finally, if you’re experiencing signs of broken red capillaries, Dr. Alexiades suggests looking for ingredients including coffee, tea, cacao, feverfew and chamomile.

40s
THE ISSUES
“When you reach your 40’s, age spots, and rosacea become more prevalent. Facial sagging, especially in the lower face and hollowing around the eyes are also troublesome,” says Dr Bunting. “The other key change is perimenopause. The hormone shifts can cause cystic breakouts in some people and dry skin in others. It also causes dark patches called melasma, which forms on the upper lip, forehead and cheeks,” adds Dr. Alexiades.

THE DEFENSES
“A night-time retinoid is essential to preserve collagen (especially once menopause approaches),” says Dr Bunting. Dr. Alexiades adds that “the firming aspect of peptides is absolutely essential for this age group and must be used daily. While, for under eye, look for products that de-puff daily and shrink the dilated vessels. These include natural caffeine, tea and coffee extracts.”

To best control blotches and discolourations caused by issues such as age spots and melasma, “look for a brightening product with a mix of amino acids and plant derived agents,” explains Dr. Alexiades.

September 09, 2016 by Macrene Alexiades