Refinery 29, March 2015
The Best In Celeb Derm Skin-Care Lines
With triple degrees from Harvard and a former post as chair of research for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, Dr. Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas, a dermatologist and assistant clinical professor at Yale University School of Medicine, has spent much of her professional life researching and classifying active ingredients that help trick skin into acting like it’s younger. These discoveries have not only helped forge the frontier of skin disorder discovery (in areas including acne, stretch marks, and skin cancer), they have culminated in the creation some of the most active-packed skin-care products on the market.
Alexiades-Armenakas has released a streamlined, four-product line, each crammed with 50 skin-loving active ingredients (the number of actives has been upped from its namesake 37). “To get all the anti-aging ingredients that one would ideally want on their skin every day [with the products already on the market], people used to have to apply a dozen products daily,” she says, pointing out that such products are often preserved with potentially toxic ingredients — something she has worked to avoid. “Most people simply don’t have the time or money to support the daily use of such a litany of products.”
The products’ genius isn’t just in the sheer number of active ingredients they contain, but how those ingredients are delivered into the skin. Alexiades-Armenakas developed a patented encapsulation method that delivers each active ingredient (in microscopic bubbles called liposomes) to where it needs to go — and work — in the skin, without losing stability or efficacy along the way. “The challenge was getting all these liposomes active and stable in one formulation,” she says.
While some products with active ingredients lose their antioxidant power after six months, Alexiades-Armenakas says her delivery system allows the actives to stay potent and stable (without the use of parabens as preservatives) up to three years after they’ve been made and six months after the jar is opened. Multitasking products that are crammed with active ingredients, steer clear of potentially toxic ingredients, and contain maximized anti-aging power? No wonder busy, entrepreneurial rising stars like Chelsea Leyland, Lily Kwong, and Hannah Bronfman are hooked.